In short
An apricot-tea osmanthus that turns leathery, saffron-spiced and animal over a soft iris-wood base.
Concept
Osmanthus blossoms pressed between the pages of a suede-bound book. The flower's apricot-tea sweetness, and the leathery facet it already has, amplified with saffron, suede, birch and castoreum against a soft iris. Delicate flower against animal leather.
- Family. Floral — Leathery floral
- Main accords. Apricot osmanthus, Tea, Suede and castoreum, Saffron, Iris
- Intended for. Feminine, Evening, Luxury niche, Autumn
- Season and occasion. Autumn
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals · one of the RUŌOD House Creations
How it develops
- Opening. Mandarin and pink pepper with nectaryl and apricot lactones.
- Heart. Osmanthus absolute with the ionones, dihydro-beta-ionone, theaspirane and mate, jasmine sambac and rose.
- Base. Suede, apo-patchone, isobutyl quinoline, birch tar, castoreum and safraleine with labdanum, sandalwood, Clearwood, Atlas cedar and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hedione | 90.00 | — | 9.00% |
| Osmanthus AbsoluteAs written: Osmanthus Absolute 10% DPG | 80.00 | 10% in DPG | 8.00% |
| Ambrettolide | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Atlas)As written: Cedrus atlantica oil | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Clearwood | 45.00 | — | 4.50% |
| Benzyl Salicylate | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Linalool | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Mandarin Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Suederal | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Applelide | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Dihydro-beta-ionone | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| beta-Ionone | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Castoreum AbsoluteAs written: Castoreum Absolute 10% DPG | 25.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.50% |
| SafraleineAs written: Safraleine 10% DPG | 25.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.50% |
| alpha-Irone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Muscenone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Orris Resinoid (Iris germanica) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Sandalwood Oil (Santalum album) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Apo Patchone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Birch Tar Oil (Rectified)As written: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Cistus Absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Exaltone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| gamma-Decalactone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Isobutyl QuinolineAs written: Isobutyl Quinoline 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Nectaryl | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Pink Pepper Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Polysantol | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| TheaspiraneAs written: Theaspirane 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Vanillin Isobutyrate | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| gamma-Dodecalactone | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Jasmine Sambac Absolute | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Mate AbsoluteAs written: Mate Absolute 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Rose Absolute (Rosa centifolia)As written: Rose de mai absolute | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Osmanthus Absolute, Hedione, Ambrettolide, Suederal, Clearwood
- What makes it distinctive. The leather is drawn out of the flower's own nature rather than added beside it.
- Character. Sophisticated and memorable, with a warm drydown.
- Concentration. 18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 5 of its materials: Benzyl Salicylate (Restriction: Benzyl salicylate, Amendment 49); Linalool (Specification: Linalool, Amendment 38); Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) (Birch wood pyrolysate, Amendment 47); Polysantol (Restriction: 3,3-Dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl)-4-penten-2-ol, Amendment 49); Jasmine Sambac Absolute (Restriction: Jasmine absolute (sambac), Amendment 49).
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Benzyl salicylate, Linalool. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Creation — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.