In short
A sweet, liquorice-anise herb turning into dark, dry ink and violet powder.
Concept
A fountain pen filled with liquorice-black ink. Star anise, fennel and the sweet anisic family (anisyl acetate, anisaldehyde, methyl anisate, Canthoxal) are made into writing: dry ink from moss and a metallic nitrile, violet-iris powder for the page, patchouli and tonka for the dark sweetness of the ink pot. Sweet anise against dry ink.
- Family. Aromatic — Anisic, inky, powdery
- Main accords. Star anise, Liquorice, Black ink, Violet-iris powder
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Experimental, Luxury niche
- Season and occasion. Autumn
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals · one of the RUŌOD House Creations
How it develops
- Opening. Star anise, anise and fennel with lemon, petitgrain, lavender and a trace of basil.
- Heart. Anisyl acetate, anisaldehyde, methyl anisate, Canthoxal and heliotropin with irone, orris and alpha-ionone.
- Base. Methyl atrarate, oakmoss, patchouli, cypriol, labdanum, tonka, coumarin and benzoin with Kephalis, Himalayan cedar, Clearwood and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hedione HC | 90.00 | — | 9.00% |
| Velvione | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Galaxolide | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Kephalis | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Patchouli Oil | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Cedryl Acetate | 43.00 | — | 4.30% |
| alpha-Isomethyl Ionone | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Himalayan)As written: Deodar cedarwood oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| alpha-Ionone | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Clearwood | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Globanone | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| alpha-Irone | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Orris Givco | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Heliotropin | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Petitgrain Bigarade Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Anisaldehyde | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Anisyl Acetate | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Coumarin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Lavender Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Methyl Atrarate | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Muscenone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Oakmoss AbsoluteAs written: Oakmoss Absolute 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Star Anise Oil | 12.00 | — | 1.20% |
| Citronellyl NitrileAs written: Citronellyl Nitrile 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Clary Sage Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Aldehyde C-12 Lauric (Dodecanal)As written: Aldehyde C-12 Lauric (Dodecanal) 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Methyl Anisate | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Canthoxal | 8.00 | — | 0.80% |
| Rose OxideAs written: Rose Oxide 10% DPG | 8.00 | 10% in DPG | 0.80% |
| Anise Oil | 6.00 | — | 0.60% |
| Anethole | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Sweet Fennel Oil | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Basil Oil | 3.00 | — | 0.30% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Velvione, Hedione HC, Star Anise Oil, Patchouli Oil, Anisyl Acetate
- What makes it distinctive. Anise used as the subject of an abstract — ink — instead of as a gourmand liquorice or a fougère accent.
- Character. Artistic and memorable, with a strong signature.
- Concentration. 15%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 8 of its materials: alpha-Isomethyl Ionone (Methyl ionone, mixed isomers, Amendment 49); Globanone (Restriction: Cyclohexadecenone, Amendment 51); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49); Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) (Restriction: Lemon oil cold pressed, Amendment 49); Anisaldehyde (Restriction: p-Methoxybenzaldehyde, Amendment 51); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49); Oakmoss Absolute (Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49); Canthoxal (Restriction: 4-Methoxy-alpha-methylbenzenepropanal, Amendment 51).
- Phototoxicity. Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Coumarin, Evernia prunastri extract, alpha-Isomethyl ionone. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Creation — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.