In short
A radiant, aldehydic rose-jasmine over a dark, mossy, patchouli-labdanum chypre base.
Concept
A rose chypre from a dressing table of the 1970s, rebuilt within today's constraints: aldehydes and bergamot, a full rose and jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum. Deliberately classic — a study in the form rather than a reinvention.
- Family. Chypre — Floral chypre, aldehydic
- Main accords. Aldehydes, Rose, Jasmine, Oakmoss, Patchouli
- Intended for. Feminine, Mature, Special occasion, Evening
- Season and occasion. All year
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bergamot, lemon and two aldehydes.
- Heart. Rose oil and absolute, phenylethyl alcohol, citronellol, geraniol, damascenone, jasmine, ylang and orris ionones.
- Base. Oakmoss, methyl atrarate, patchouli, vetiveryl acetate, labdanum, sandalwood, coumarin and benzoin with musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hedione | 90.00 | — | 9.00% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 90.00 | — | 9.00% |
| Patchouli Oil | 80.00 | — | 8.00% |
| Iso E Super | 79.00 | — | 7.90% |
| Bergamot Oil FCF | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| alpha-Isomethyl Ionone | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Citronellol | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Exaltolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Galaxolide | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Oakmoss AbsoluteAs written: Oakmoss Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Methyl Atrarate | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Rose Absolute (Rosa centifolia)As written: Rose de mai absolute | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Rose Oil (Rosa damascena) | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Cashmeran | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Geraniol | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Jasmine Absolute (Grandiflorum) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Aldehyde C-12 MNAAs written: Aldehyde C-12 MNA 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Sandalwood Oil (Santalum album) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic (10-Undecenal)As written: Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic (10-Undecenal) 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Ylang Ylang Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cetalox | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Coumarin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Muscenone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Castoreum AbsoluteAs written: Castoreum Absolute 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Clary Sage Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| alpha-Irone | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| beta-DamascenoneAs written: beta-Damascenone 10% DPG | 8.00 | 10% in DPG | 0.80% |
| Rose OxideAs written: Rose Oxide 10% DPG | 8.00 | 10% in DPG | 0.80% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Phenylethyl Alcohol, Patchouli Oil, Hedione, Bergamot Oil FCF, Iso E Super
- What makes it distinctive. A faithful classical architecture, with the moss carried by methyl atrarate so that oakmoss can stay at a low design level.
- Character. Elegant and deep: a floral chypre of reference.
- Concentration. 18–20%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 13 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); alpha-Isomethyl Ionone (Methyl ionone, mixed isomers, Amendment 49); Citronellol (Restriction: Citronellol, Amendment 49); Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Oakmoss Absolute (Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49); Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Geraniol (Restriction: Geraniol, Amendment 51); Jasmine Absolute (Grandiflorum) (Restriction: Jasmine absolute (grandiflorum), Amendment 49); Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) (Restriction: Lemon oil cold pressed, Amendment 49); Ylang Ylang Oil (Restriction: Ylang ylang extracts, Amendment 49); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49); beta-Damascenone (Restriction: Rose ketones, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Citronellol, Coumarin, Evernia prunastri extract, Geraniol, alpha-Isomethyl ionone. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.