In short
A jammy plum and apricot-osmanthus floral over a dry, earthy, mossy patchouli base.
Concept
Velvet curtains drawn at dusk: dark plum skin and osmanthus over the old chypre bones of bergamot, patchouli, labdanum and moss. A grown-up fruity chypre that keeps its bitterness.
- Family. Chypre — Fruity chypre
- Main accords. Dark plum, Osmanthus, Patchouli, Moss, Labdanum
- Intended for. Feminine, Evening, Date night, Mature
- Season and occasion. Autumn and winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bergamot, mandarin and pink pepper with a dark plum of benzyl butyrate and pyroprunat.
- Heart. Osmanthus, rose absolute, jasmine, davana and damascenone.
- Base. Patchouli, labdanum, methyl atrarate and a little oakmoss, softened by benzoin and vanillin.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Patchouli Oil | 100.00 | — | 10.00% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 100.00 | — | 10.00% |
| Bergamot Oil FCF | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Benzyl Salicylate | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Ethylene Brassylate | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 55.00 | — | 5.50% |
| Clearwood | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Osmanthus AbsoluteAs written: Osmanthus Absolute 10% DPG | 50.00 | 10% in DPG | 5.00% |
| Amber Xtreme | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Citronellol | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Fruit Sec | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Linalool | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Mandarin Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| PyroprunatAs written: Pyroprunat 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cashmeran | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Benzyl Butyrate | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Oakmoss AbsoluteAs written: Oakmoss Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Rose Absolute (Rosa centifolia)As written: Rose de mai absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Ylang Ylang Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| gamma-Undecalactone (Aldehyde C-14) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Methyl Atrarate | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Pink Pepper Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Vanillin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| beta-DamascenoneAs written: beta-Damascenone 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Davana Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Jasmine Absolute (Grandiflorum) | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Patchouli Oil, Bergamot Oil FCF, Osmanthus Absolute, Phenylethyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate
- What makes it distinctive. The fruit is dark and dried (plum, apricot, davana) rather than candied berries, and the moss is kept.
- Character. Rich, with the classic shape of a chypre.
- Concentration. 18% (eau de parfum)
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 9 of its materials: Benzyl Salicylate (Restriction: Benzyl salicylate, Amendment 49); Citronellol (Restriction: Citronellol, Amendment 49); Linalool (Specification: Linalool, Amendment 38); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49); Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Oakmoss Absolute (Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49); Ylang Ylang Oil (Restriction: Ylang ylang extracts, Amendment 49); beta-Damascenone (Restriction: Rose ketones, Amendment 49); Jasmine Absolute (Grandiflorum) (Restriction: Jasmine absolute (grandiflorum), Amendment 49).
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Benzyl salicylate, Citronellol, Evernia prunastri extract, Linalool. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.