In short
Bitter cocoa and orange over an earthy, mossy patchouli chypre with a soft musky depth.
Concept
Dark chocolate grated over the forest floor. Cacao, orange zest and a little rose on a chypre of oakmoss and patchouli: it flirts with gourmand, but stays bitter and earthy.
- Family. Chypre — Gourmand chypre
- Main accords. Dark chocolate, Orange zest, Oakmoss, Patchouli
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Evening, Luxury niche, Winter
- Season and occasion. Winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Sweet, bitter and blood orange with pink pepper.
- Heart. Cacao absolute, Chocovan, a cocoa aldehyde and methyl phenyl hexenal with a little rose.
- Base. Patchouli, patchoulol, oakmoss, methyl atrarate, labdanum, Clearwood, guaiac and musks with vanillin and tonka.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Patchouli Oil | 100.00 | — | 10.00% |
| Iso E Super | 80.00 | — | 8.00% |
| Cacao AbsoluteAs written: Cacao Absolute 10% DPG | 60.00 | 10% in DPG | 6.00% |
| Sweet Orange Oil | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Exaltolide | 55.00 | — | 5.50% |
| Hedione HC | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Clearwood | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Blood Orange Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cashmeran | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Chocovan | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Georgywood | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Globanone | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Oakmoss AbsoluteAs written: Oakmoss Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Methyl Atrarate | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| 5-Methyl-2-phenyl-2-hexenalAs written: 5-Methyl-2-phenyl-2-hexenal 1% DPG | 20.00 | 1% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Patchoulol | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Vanillin | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Muscenone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Pink Pepper Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| 2-MethylbutanalAs written: 2-Methylbutanal 1% DPG | 10.00 | 1% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Coumarin | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Rose Absolute (Rosa centifolia)As written: Rose de mai absolute | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Ethyl Vanillin | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Patchouli Oil, Iso E Super, Sweet Orange Oil, Cacao Absolute, Hedione HC
- What makes it distinctive. Chocolate used as a chypre's darkness rather than as dessert.
- Character. Warm, rich and distinctive for winter evenings.
- Concentration. 18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 8 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Globanone (Restriction: Cyclohexadecenone, Amendment 51); Oakmoss Absolute (Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Coumarin, Evernia prunastri extract. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.