In short
A bitter, citrusy leather chypre with mossy, earthy, vetiver-dry depth.
Concept
A bridle of oiled leather hung on a stable door beside a bitter-orange tree. Bitter orange and petitgrain on a leather chypre — suede, apo-patchone's rose-leather, a touch of birch and castoreum — with oakmoss, patchouli and vetiver. Brighter and drier than a saddle leather.
- Family. Chypre — Leather chypre, citrus
- Main accords. Bitter orange, Bridle leather, Oakmoss, Vetiver
- Intended for. Masculine, Mature, Office, Luxury niche
- Season and occasion. Autumn
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bitter orange, petitgrain, neroli and lemon with black pepper and juniper.
- Heart. Suede, apo-patchone, isobutyl quinoline, geranium, Rosaphen and jasmine with clary sage.
- Base. Oakmoss, methyl atrarate, patchouli, vetiver acetates, Clearwood, vertofix, Iso E Super and cetalox.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Iso E Super | 85.00 | — | 8.50% |
| Petitgrain Bigarade Oil | 80.00 | — | 8.00% |
| Patchouli Oil | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Hedione | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Suederal | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Vertofix | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Clearwood | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Exaltolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Cedramber | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Georgywood | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Methyl Atrarate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Oakmoss AbsoluteAs written: Oakmoss Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Rosaphen | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cistus Absolute | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Apo Patchone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Castoreum AbsoluteAs written: Castoreum Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Cetalox | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Geranium Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Muscenone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Vetikol Acetate | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Birch Tar Oil (Rectified)As written: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Black Pepper Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Clary Sage Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Isobutyl QuinolineAs written: Isobutyl Quinoline 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Coumarin | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Jasmine Absolute (Grandiflorum) | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Juniper Berry Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Neroli Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Iso E Super, Petitgrain Bigarade Oil, Patchouli Oil, Suederal, Vertofix
- What makes it distinctive. A leather chypre lit by citrus leaf and peel, without the sweetness of a modern leather.
- Character. Refined and confident, suitable for the office.
- Concentration. 15–18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 9 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49); Oakmoss Absolute (Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49); Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) (Birch wood pyrolysate, Amendment 47); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49); Jasmine Absolute (Grandiflorum) (Restriction: Jasmine absolute (grandiflorum), Amendment 49); Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) (Restriction: Lemon oil cold pressed, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed), Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) are phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Coumarin, Evernia prunastri extract. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.