In short
A rich, hay-sweet lavender over tobacco, leather and smoky vanilla.
Concept
The fougère after dark. Lavender absolute and geranium sink into tobacco, tonka, leather and a vanilla smoke — the barbershop at midnight, with the shutters down.
- Family. Fougère — Dark tobacco fougère
- Main accords. Lavender absolute, Tobacco, Tonka, Leather, Vanilla smoke
- Intended for. Masculine, Evening, Date night, Young adult
- Season and occasion. Winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Lavender oil, bitter orange, lemon and cardamom with linalyl acetate.
- Heart. Lavender and lavandin absolutes, geranium, clary sage, tobacco absolute, hay and davana.
- Base. Coumarin, tonka, vanilla absolute, vanillin, benzoin and labdanum with suede, castoreum, birch tar, vertofix and cedramber.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Iso E Super | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Lavender Oil | 55.00 | — | 5.50% |
| Lavender AbsoluteAs written: Lavender Absolute 10% DPG | 50.00 | 10% in DPG | 5.00% |
| Tobacco AbsoluteAs written: Tobacco Absolute 10% DPG | 50.00 | 10% in DPG | 5.00% |
| Vertofix | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Cedramber | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Coumarin | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Patchouli Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cosmone | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Geranium Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Kephalis | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Lavandin AbsoluteAs written: Lavandin Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Linalyl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Suederal | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Tetrahydrolinalool | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Vanilla AbsoluteAs written: Vanilla Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Amber Core | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Clary Sage Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Hay AbsoluteAs written: Hay Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Castoreum AbsoluteAs written: Castoreum Absolute 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Heliotropin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Muscenone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Vanillin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Birch Tar Oil (Rectified)As written: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Cardamom Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Isobutyl QuinolineAs written: Isobutyl Quinoline 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Methyl Atrarate | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Davana Oil | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Lavender Oil, Iso E Super, Vertofix, Coumarin, Tobacco Absolute
- What makes it distinctive. A fougère that keeps its lavender to the end while descending into tobacco and leather.
- Character. Seductive, with a classic yet modern feel.
- Concentration. 18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 7 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49); Amber Core (Restriction: 1-(2-tert.-Butyl cyclohexyloxy)-2-butanol, Amendment 51); Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) (Restriction: Lemon oil cold pressed, Amendment 49); Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) (Birch wood pyrolysate, Amendment 47).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed), Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) are phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Coumarin. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.