In short
A dark, smoky, animalic leather with hay and resin, drying to warm woods and musk.
Concept
A black saddle being polished in a dark stable: castoreum and birch-tar leather, the warmth of the horse, hay and labdanum resin. Uncompromising and animal, for wearers who want leather to smell like leather.
- Family. Leather — Animalic leather
- Main accords. Black leather, Castoreum, Stable hay, Labdanum
- Intended for. Masculine, Evening, Mature, Luxury niche
- Season and occasion. Winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bitter orange and black pepper with saffron and a trace of cumin.
- Heart. Castoreum, birch tar, isobutyl quinoline, suede, p-cresyl phenylacetate and a trace of skatole.
- Base. Labdanum, cistus, styrax and benzoin with hay and tobacco over vertofix, cedramber, guaiac and muscone.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Castoreum AbsoluteAs written: Castoreum Absolute 10% DPG | 80.00 | 10% in DPG | 8.00% |
| Vertofix | 80.00 | — | 8.00% |
| Birch Tar Oil (Rectified)As written: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) 10% DPG | 60.00 | 10% in DPG | 6.00% |
| Cedramber | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Suederal | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Amber Core | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Exaltolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Patchouli Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Hay AbsoluteAs written: Hay Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Isobutyl QuinolineAs written: Isobutyl Quinoline 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Tobacco AbsoluteAs written: Tobacco Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Vetiver Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cistus Absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Clary Sage AbsoluteAs written: Clary Sage Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Cosmone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cumin Seed OilAs written: Cumin Seed Oil 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| p-Cresyl PhenylacetateAs written: p-Cresyl Phenylacetate 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| SafraleineAs written: Safraleine 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Z11 | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Black Pepper Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Muscone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Styrax Resinoid | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| SkatoleAs written: Skatole 1% DPG | 10.00 | 1% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Vertofix, Castoreum Absolute, Suederal, Birch Tar Oil (Rectified), Cedramber
- What makes it distinctive. A full-strength animal leather using real castoreum, skatole and cumin rather than a clean suede.
- Character. All character.
- Concentration. 18–20%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 6 of its materials: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) (Birch wood pyrolysate, Amendment 47); Amber Core (Restriction: 1-(2-tert.-Butyl cyclohexyloxy)-2-butanol, Amendment 51); Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Cumin Seed Oil (Restriction: Cumin oil, Amendment 49); Styrax Resinoid (Restriction: Styrax, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed), Cumin Seed Oil are phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. None of the EU’s long-standing named fragrance allergens is an ingredient in its own right. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.