In short
Roasted hazelnut and dark caramel with cocoa, a curl of smoke and a dry earthy-woody base.
Concept
Hazelnut praline left in a cast-iron pan until it smokes. Burnt Sugar Smoke gives the scorched caramel; filbertone and a pyrazine give roasted hazelnut; cacao, vetiver and patchouli give a bitter, earthy darkness so the sweetness has a burnt edge.
- Family. Gourmand — Smoky nutty gourmand
- Main accords. Burnt sugar, Roasted hazelnut, Cocoa, Dark woods
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Evening, Date night, Young adult
- Season and occasion. Winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Sweet orange and mandarin with roasted hazelnut and a little nutmeg.
- Heart. Burnt Sugar Smoke with cacao absolute, vanilla absolute and a maple-fenugreek trace of sotolone.
- Base. Vetiver, patchouli, cedramber, Ebanol and suede with musks and tonka.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 91.20 | — | 9.12% |
| Ethylene Brassylate | 72.00 | — | 7.20% |
| Ethyl MaltolAs written: Ethyl Maltol 10% DPG | 51.00 | 10% in DPG | 5.10% |
| Sweet Orange Oil | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 40.80 | — | 4.08% |
| Vanillin | 40.80 | — | 4.08% |
| Cacao AbsoluteAs written: Cacao Absolute 10% DPG | 40.00 | 10% in DPG | 4.00% |
| Cedramber | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| FilbertoneAs written: Filbertone 1% DPG | 40.00 | 1% in DPG | 4.00% |
| Patchouli Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Vetiver Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Cashmeran | 37.00 | — | 3.70% |
| Amber Xtreme | 34.00 | — | 3.40% |
| 2-Ethyl-3,5(6)-dimethylpyrazineAs written: 2-Ethyl-3,5(6)-dimethylpyrazine 1% DPG | 30.00 | 1% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Globanone | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Mandarin Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Vanilla AbsoluteAs written: Vanilla Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Coumarin | 27.00 | — | 2.70% |
| Chocovan | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Ebanol | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Muscenone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Suederal | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Ethyl CyclopentenoloneAs written: Ethyl Cyclopentenolone 10% DPG | 17.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.70% |
| GuaiacolAs written: Guaiacol 1% DPG | 17.00 | 1% in DPG | 1.70% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 17.00 | — | 1.70% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Heliotropin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| SotoloneAs written: Sotolone 0.1% DPG | 10.00 | 0.1% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Nutmeg Oil | 8.00 | — | 0.80% |
| 5-MethylfurfuralAs written: 5-Methylfurfural 10% DPG | 6.80 | 10% in DPG | 0.68% |
| Birch Tar Oil (Rectified)As written: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) 10% DPG | 6.80 | 10% in DPG | 0.68% |
| Ethyl Vanillin | 6.80 | — | 0.68% |
| FuraneolAs written: Furaneol 10% DPG | 6.80 | 10% in DPG | 0.68% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Accords inside. This formula contains Burnt Sugar Smoke Accord at 340 parts. It is already expanded into the lines above — each material appears once, with the accord's share merged into it — so an accord is never weighed or counted twice.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Benzoin Resinoid (Siam), Ethyl Maltol, Vanillin, Guaiac Wood Oil, Vetiver Oil
- What makes it distinctive. The gourmand is kept adult by smoke, cocoa bitterness and vetiver — the praline is burnt, not sugared.
- Character. Comforting and warm, with a strong evening presence.
- Concentration. 15–18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 5 of its materials: Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Globanone (Restriction: Cyclohexadecenone, Amendment 51); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49); Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) (Birch wood pyrolysate, Amendment 47); Furaneol (Restriction: 4-Hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3(2H)-furanone, Amendment 49).
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Coumarin. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.