In short
Smoky, woody maple with a damp leafy greenness and a soft, musky fog.
Concept
A sugar shack on a foggy autumn morning: maple sap boiling, wood smoke from the fire, wet fallen leaves and the curry-warm sweetness of fenugreek. Gourmand as atmosphere rather than as dessert.
- Family. Gourmand — Smoky maple
- Main accords. Boiling maple sap, Wood smoke, Wet leaves, Fenugreek warmth
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Everyday, Mature, Autumn
- Season and occasion. Autumn
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bitter and sweet orange with a cool aldehydic fog and wet leaves.
- Heart. Sotolone, fenugreek absolute, cyclotene, ethyl cyclopentenolone and maltol with hay and liatris.
- Base. Atlas cedar, oak CO2, Kephalis, Georgywood, Iso E Super and cedramber with guaiacol, guaiac wood, cade, benzoin and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Iso E Super | 80.00 | — | 8.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 55.00 | — | 5.50% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Atlas)As written: Cedrus atlantica oil | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Musk R1 | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Cedramber | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| CycloteneAs written: Cyclotene 10% DPG | 40.00 | 10% in DPG | 4.00% |
| Exaltolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Georgywood | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cashmeran | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Ethyl CyclopentenoloneAs written: Ethyl Cyclopentenolone 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Fenugreek AbsoluteAs written: Fenugreek Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| GuaiacolAs written: Guaiacol 1% DPG | 30.00 | 1% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Kephalis | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Oakwood CO2 ExtractAs written: Oakwood CO2 Extract 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| SotoloneAs written: Sotolone 0.1% DPG | 30.00 | 0.1% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Tetrahydrolinalool | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Vanillin | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Globanone | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| cis-3-HexenolAs written: cis-3-Hexenol 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Hay AbsoluteAs written: Hay Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Immortelle AbsoluteAs written: Immortelle Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Liatris AbsoluteAs written: Liatris Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Sweet Orange Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cade Oil (Rectified)As written: Juniper tar 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| CaloneAs written: Calone 1% DPG | 15.00 | 1% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Coumarin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| 1-Octen-3-olAs written: 1-Octen-3-ol 1% DPG | 15.00 | 1% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Maltol | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Aldehyde C-9 (Nonanal)As written: Aldehyde C-9 (Nonanal) 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| OzofleurAs written: Ozofleur 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Iso E Super, Benzoin Resinoid (Siam), Guaiac Wood Oil, Cedarwood Oil (Atlas), Cyclotene
- What makes it distinctive. Maple placed in its landscape — fire, fog and leaves — so the sweetness is smoky and damp, not syrupy.
- Character. Cosy, original and evocative.
- Concentration. 15%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 7 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Globanone (Restriction: Cyclohexadecenone, Amendment 51); Cade Oil (Rectified) (Cade oil, Amendment 47); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Coumarin. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.