In short
Dark caramel with a bitter, smoky crust — gourmand, but adult.
Concept
Sugar caramelised until it smokes. Ethyl maltol, cyclopentenolone and furaneol for burnt sugar, vanillin and benzoin for the cream, guaiacol, guaiac wood and birch tar for the smoke at the edge of the pan.
Role. Caramel taken a little too far: sugar and smoke.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 180.00 | — | 18.00% |
| Ethyl MaltolAs written: Ethyl Maltol 10% DPG | 150.00 | 10% in DPG | 15.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 120.00 | — | 12.00% |
| Vanillin | 120.00 | — | 12.00% |
| Amber Xtreme | 100.00 | — | 10.00% |
| Cashmeran | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Coumarin | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Ethyl CyclopentenoloneAs written: Ethyl Cyclopentenolone 10% DPG | 50.00 | 10% in DPG | 5.00% |
| GuaiacolAs written: Guaiacol 1% DPG | 50.00 | 1% in DPG | 5.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| 5-MethylfurfuralAs written: 5-Methylfurfural 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Birch Tar Oil (Rectified)As written: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Ethyl Vanillin | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| FuraneolAs written: Furaneol 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Used in
This accord is expanded inside one perfume of the collection: Praline Smoke.
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 4 of its materials: Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49); Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) (Birch wood pyrolysate, Amendment 47); Furaneol (Restriction: 4-Hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3(2H)-furanone, Amendment 49).
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Coumarin. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Accord — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this accord can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.