In short
A soft, smoky-sweet rose wood with a saffron-pepper glow and a musky finish.
Concept
A rose dried over a wood fire. Guaiac wood — which itself smells faintly of roses and smoke — and guaiyl acetate's tea-rose are joined to a real rose, with a little saffron and pepper. Tender and smoky.
- Family. Woody — Smoky rose woods
- Main accords. Guaiac wood, Tea rose, Smoke, Saffron
- Intended for. Feminine, Evening, Young adult, Autumn
- Season and occasion. Autumn
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Blood orange, lemon and pink pepper with ethyl safranate and davana.
- Heart. Rose oil and Rosa damascena absolute with phenylethyl alcohol, citronellol, geraniol and damascenone.
- Base. Guaiac wood, guaiyl acetate, Kephalis, Brahmanol, sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 100.00 | — | 10.00% |
| Iso E Super | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Hedione HC | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Exaltolide | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Ambrettolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Guaiyl Acetate | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Phenoxanol | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Blood Orange Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Brahmanol | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Citronellol | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Kephalis | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Patchouli Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Rosaphen | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Velvione | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Muscenone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Okoumal | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Pink Pepper Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Rose Absolute (Rosa damascena)As written: Bulgarian rose absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Rose Oil (Rosa damascena) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cashmeran | 17.00 | — | 1.70% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Ethyl SafranateAs written: Ethyl Safranate 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Geraniol | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Geranium Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Sandalwood Oil (Santalum album) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Vanillin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| GuaiacolAs written: Guaiacol 1% DPG | 10.00 | 1% in DPG | 1.00% |
| beta-DamascenoneAs written: beta-Damascenone 10% DPG | 8.00 | 10% in DPG | 0.80% |
| Davana Oil | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Guaiac Wood Oil, Phenylethyl Alcohol, Hedione HC, Iso E Super, Guaiyl Acetate
- What makes it distinctive. The rose is grown out of a wood that already smells of rose, which should make the two inseparable.
- Character. Romantic, warm and easy to wear.
- Concentration. 15–18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 7 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Citronellol (Restriction: Citronellol, Amendment 49); Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Geraniol (Restriction: Geraniol, Amendment 51); Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) (Restriction: Lemon oil cold pressed, Amendment 49); beta-Damascenone (Restriction: Rose ketones, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Citronellol, Geraniol. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.