In short
A spicy, peppery carnation-rose over smoky, slightly leathery woods.
Concept
A red carnation in the buttonhole of a mechanic's coat. A clove-spiced carnation and rose, with pepper, set against warm, oily woods and a little leather — an old-fashioned flower with modern grit.
- Family. Floral — Spicy carnation, leathery
- Main accords. Clove carnation, Rose, Pepper, Machine-oil woods, Leather
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Evening, Mature, Autumn
- Season and occasion. Autumn
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bitter orange, black and pink pepper, coriander and nutmeg with a metallic lauric aldehyde.
- Heart. Carnation absolute, eugenol, clove bud, benzyl isoeugenol, isoeugenyl acetate, rose oil, phenylethyl alcohol and ylang.
- Base. Vertofix, guaiac, Georgywood, Iso E Super, cypriol, patchouli, suede and labdanum with musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Iso E Super | 110.00 | — | 11.00% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 90.00 | — | 9.00% |
| Carnation AbsoluteAs written: Carnation Absolute 10% DPG | 60.00 | 10% in DPG | 6.00% |
| Exaltolide | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Vertofix | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Hedione HC | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 49.00 | — | 4.90% |
| Georgywood | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Tetrahydrolinalool | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Citronellol | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Suederal | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Patchouli Oil | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Ylang Ylang Oil | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Black Pepper Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Geraniol | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cosmone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Aldehyde C-12 Lauric (Dodecanal)As written: Aldehyde C-12 Lauric (Dodecanal) 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Isoeugenyl AcetateAs written: Isoeugenyl Acetate 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Muscenone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Pink Pepper Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Rose Oil (Rosa damascena) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Eugenol | 12.00 | — | 1.20% |
| Benzyl Isoeugenol | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Coriander Seed Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Heliotropin | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Isobutyl QuinolineAs written: Isobutyl Quinoline 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Rose OxideAs written: Rose Oxide 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Vanillin | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Nutmeg Oil | 8.00 | — | 0.80% |
| Clove Bud Oil | 6.00 | — | 0.60% |
| Carrot Seed Oil | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Cinnamyl Alcohol | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Iso E Super, Phenylethyl Alcohol, Vertofix, Exaltolide, Carnation Absolute
- What makes it distinctive. Carnation, rarely used today, given a mechanical, oily-wood context rather than a powdery vintage one.
- Character. Characterful and unisex.
- Concentration. 15–18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 9 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Citronellol (Restriction: Citronellol, Amendment 49); Ylang Ylang Oil (Restriction: Ylang ylang extracts, Amendment 49); Geraniol (Restriction: Geraniol, Amendment 51); Isoeugenyl Acetate (Restriction: Isoeugenyl acetate, Amendment 51); Eugenol (Restriction: Eugenol, Amendment 51); Cinnamyl Alcohol (Restriction: Cinnamic alcohol, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Cinnamyl alcohol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Geraniol. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.