In short
A warm, sensual, animalic musk with a rose-orris powder and a balsamic-labdanum depth.
Concept
A classic animal musk in the old manner, rebuilt with present-day materials: civet and civetone, the macrocyclic ketones muscone, exaltone, isomuscone and muscenone, with labdanum, rose and powdery orris — a cartouche of warm skin and fur.
- Family. Animalic — Classic animal musk
- Main accords. Animal musk, Civet, Labdanum, Rose-orris, Warm skin
- Intended for. Feminine, Mature, Evening, Special occasion
- Season and occasion. Autumn and winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bergamot and bitter orange with a soft undecylenic aldehyde.
- Heart. Rose absolute, phenylethyl alcohol, phenylethyl phenylacetate, jasmine, indole, orris butter, irone and a carnation glint.
- Base. Civet, civetone, muscone, exaltone, isomuscone, Muscenone, cosmone, Exaltolide, ambrettolide and Tonquitone over labdanum, benzoin, tolu, sandalwood and Brahmanol.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Labdanum Absolute | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Brahmanol | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Exaltolide | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Bergamot Oil FCF | 57.00 | — | 5.70% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Ambrettolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| CivetoneAs written: Civetone 1% DPG | 40.00 | 1% in DPG | 4.00% |
| Phenoxanol | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Rosaphen | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Civet AbsoluteAs written: Civet Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Patchouli Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Sandalwood Oil (Santalum album) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Amber Core | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cistus Absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cosmone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Exaltone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| alpha-Irone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Methyl Beta Ionone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Muscenone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Muscone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Rose Absolute (Rosa centifolia)As written: Rose de mai absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Tolu Balsam Resinoid | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Coumarin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Geraniol | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Heliotropin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Isomuscone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Jasmine Absolute (Grandiflorum) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Phenylethyl Phenylacetate | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Tonquitone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic (10-Undecenal)As written: Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic (10-Undecenal) 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Ethyl Vanillin | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| IndoleAs written: Indole 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Orris Butter (Orris Concrete) | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Benzyl Isoeugenol | 8.00 | — | 0.80% |
| Eugenol | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Labdanum Absolute, Exaltolide, Brahmanol, Civetone, Bergamot Oil FCF
- What makes it distinctive. A faithful animal musk of the kind rarely made now, with every musk role taken by an available material.
- Character. Deep and sensual.
- Concentration. 18–20%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 10 of its materials: Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49); Amber Core (Restriction: 1-(2-tert.-Butyl cyclohexyloxy)-2-butanol, Amendment 51); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Methyl Beta Ionone (Methyl ionone, mixed isomers, Amendment 49); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49); Geraniol (Restriction: Geraniol, Amendment 51); Isomuscone (Restriction: Cyclohexadecanone, Amendment 51); Jasmine Absolute (Grandiflorum) (Restriction: Jasmine absolute (grandiflorum), Amendment 49); Eugenol (Restriction: Eugenol, Amendment 51).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Coumarin, Eugenol, Geraniol. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.