In short
A deep, balsamic, resinous amber with vanilla, a powdery rose-orris and a soft sandalwood base.
Concept
A classic amber in full evening dress: labdanum, benzoin, tolu, myrrh, opoponax and vanilla, laid over a quiet floral heart of rose and orris. Warmth with good manners — rich, but not loud.
- Family. Amber — Classic balsamic amber
- Main accords. Labdanum, Benzoin and tolu, Myrrh and opoponax, Vanilla, Rose-orris
- Intended for. Feminine, Mature, Special occasion, Winter
- Season and occasion. Winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bitter and sweet orange with a little clove and cinnamon leaf.
- Heart. Rose absolute, phenylethyl alcohol, orris, irone and heliotropin.
- Base. Labdanum, benzoin, tolu, myrrh, opoponax, vanilla absolute, vanillin, tonka and coumarin with sandalwood, Brahmanol and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 150.00 | — | 15.00% |
| Iso E Super | 85.00 | — | 8.50% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Opoponax AbsoluteAs written: Opoponax Absolute 10% DPG | 50.00 | 10% in DPG | 5.00% |
| Vanilla AbsoluteAs written: Vanilla Absolute 10% DPG | 50.00 | 10% in DPG | 5.00% |
| Ambrettolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Tolu Balsam Resinoid | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Vanillin | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Amber Xtreme | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Brahmanol | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Sweet Orange Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Benzyl Cinnamate | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cashmeran | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cetalox | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cistus Absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Coumarin | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Heliotropin | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Myrrh Resinoid | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Orris Givco | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Sandalwood Oil (Santalum album) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Exaltone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Opoponax Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Rose Absolute (Rosa centifolia)As written: Rose de mai absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Ethyl Vanillin | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| alpha-Irone | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Peru Balsam Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Styrax Resinoid | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Cinnamon Leaf Oil | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Clove Bud Oil | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Benzoin Resinoid (Siam), Iso E Super, Labdanum Absolute, Vanilla Absolute, Tolu Balsam Resinoid
- What makes it distinctive. A traditional amber kept elegant by a real floral heart and by spice used as warmth, not as a feature.
- Character. Rich, for winter and special occasions.
- Concentration. 20% (eau de parfum)
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 8 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Benzyl Cinnamate (Restriction: Benzyl cinnamate, Amendment 49); Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Coumarin (Restriction: Coumarin, Amendment 49); Opoponax Oil (Opoponax, Amendment 49); Peru Balsam Oil (Peru balsam, Amendment 49); Styrax Resinoid (Restriction: Styrax, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Benzyl cinnamate, Coumarin. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.