In short
Inky, mossy and balsamic, with a green-woody damp earth and a faint resinous smoke.
Concept
A cathedral of fir trees with moss underfoot. Oakmoss and methyl atrarate give inky moss; fir, spruce and cypress the columns; Wet Bark the damp ground; a little frankincense the cold air. A forest chypre with no fruit and no flowers.
- Family. Chypre — Forest chypre
- Main accords. Oakmoss ink, Fir balsam, Wet bark, Cold incense
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Luxury niche, Mature, Autumn
- Season and occasion. Autumn
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bergamot and lemon with juniper, fir and isobornyl acetate.
- Heart. Oakmoss, methyl atrarate, clary sage, geranium, cypress and frankincense.
- Base. Wet Bark with patchouli, vetiver, labdanum, Himalayan cedar, Georgywood, cetalox and Exaltolide.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Patchouli Oil | 100.20 | — | 10.02% |
| Vetiver Oil | 62.80 | — | 6.28% |
| Bergamot Oil FCF | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Amyris Oil | 59.00 | — | 5.90% |
| Hedione | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Virginia)As written: Virginian cedarwood oil | 47.50 | — | 4.75% |
| cis-3-Hexenyl Salicylate | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Exaltolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Balsam Fir Needle Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Georgywood | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Himalayan)As written: Deodar cedarwood oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Siberian Fir Needle Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Methyl Atrarate | 35.70 | — | 3.57% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Oakmoss AbsoluteAs written: Oakmoss Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Black Spruce Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cetalox | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Clary Sage Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cypress AbsoluteAs written: Cypress Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Frankincense Oil (Olibanum) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Isobornyl Acetate | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Sclareolide | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cedryl Acetate | 19.00 | — | 1.90% |
| Cedramber | 15.20 | — | 1.52% |
| Cosmone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Geranium Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Juniper Berry Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 11.40 | — | 1.14% |
| cis-3-HexenolAs written: cis-3-Hexenol 10% DPG | 7.60 | 10% in DPG | 0.76% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 7.60 | — | 0.76% |
| Terrasol | 7.60 | — | 0.76% |
| CaloneAs written: Calone 1% DPG | 5.70 | 1% in DPG | 0.57% |
| 1-Octen-3-olAs written: 1-Octen-3-ol 1% DPG | 3.80 | 1% in DPG | 0.38% |
| GeosminAs written: Geosmin 0.1% DPG | 1.90 | 0.1% in DPG | 0.19% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Accords inside. This formula contains Wet Bark Accord at 190 parts. It is already expanded into the lines above — each material appears once, with the accord's share merged into it — so an accord is never weighed or counted twice.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Patchouli Oil, Methyl Atrarate, Bergamot Oil FCF, Cedarwood Oil (Virginia), Hedione
- What makes it distinctive. A chypre with its floral and fruit removed, leaving only the moss-wood skeleton dressed as a forest.
- Character. Deep and natural-feeling.
- Concentration. 15–18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 3 of its materials: Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Oakmoss Absolute (Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49); Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) (Restriction: Lemon oil cold pressed, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Evernia prunastri extract. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.