In short
A cold, silvery iris with an aldehydic shine over a warm, salty-animalic ambergris and labdanum base.
Concept
An ingot of silver beside a lump of ambergris. Cold, metallic iris and aldehydes over warm, salty ambergris and labdanum — precious, cool and warm at once.
- Family. Powdery — Metallic iris, ambergris
- Main accords. Cold silver iris, Ambergris, Labdanum, Salt
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Luxury niche, Special occasion, Winter
- Season and occasion. Winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals · one of the RUŌOD House Creations
How it develops
- Opening. Bergamot and petitgrain with undecylenic and lauric aldehydes, rose oxide and a metallic nitrile.
- Heart. Orris butter and absolute, orris resinoid, irone and methyl beta-ionone with carrot seed, angelica and Rosalva.
- Base. Ambergris tincture, ambrinol, ambroxan, Z11, labdanum, cistus, sclareolide and MNA over sandalwood, Bacdanol, vertenex and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hedione HC | 87.00 | — | 8.70% |
| Ambergris Tincture | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Ambrettolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Ambroxan | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Bacdanol | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Bergamot Oil FCF | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Exaltolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| alpha-Irone | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Musk R1 | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Velvione | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Vertenex | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| AmbrinolAs written: Ambrinol 1% DPG | 30.00 | 1% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Georgywood | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Phenoxanol | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic (10-Undecenal)As written: Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic (10-Undecenal) 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Cashmeran | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| MaritimaAs written: Maritima 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Methyl Beta Ionone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Aldehyde C-12 MNAAs written: Aldehyde C-12 MNA 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Orris Butter (Orris Concrete) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Orris Resinoid (Iris germanica) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Petitgrain Bigarade Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Sandalwood Oil (Santalum album) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Sclareolide | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Z11 | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cistus Absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Aldehyde C-12 Lauric (Dodecanal)As written: Aldehyde C-12 Lauric (Dodecanal) 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Heliotropex N | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Citronellyl NitrileAs written: Citronellyl Nitrile 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Orris Absolute | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| OzofleurAs written: Ozofleur 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Rosalva | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Rose OxideAs written: Rose Oxide 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Vanillin Isobutyrate | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Carrot Seed Oil | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Angelica Root Oil | 3.00 | — | 0.30% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Hedione HC, Ambergris Tincture, alpha-Irone, Labdanum Absolute, Ambroxan
- What makes it distinctive. Iris and ambergris — two of perfumery's most precious materials — set as cold against warm.
- Character. Refined and deep.
- Concentration. 18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 4 of its materials: Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Methyl Beta Ionone (Methyl ionone, mixed isomers, Amendment 49); Angelica Root Oil (Restriction: Angelica root oil, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Angelica Root Oil is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. None of the EU’s long-standing named fragrance allergens is an ingredient in its own right. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Creation — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.