In short
A soft, warm, slightly fruity musk with an iris-powder glow and a gentle woody base.
Concept
Ambrette seed's warm, winey, pear-skin musk, with a halo of iris and a drop of white cognac. A musk that smells of seed and skin rather than of laundry.
- Family. Musk — Natural-feeling musk
- Main accords. Ambrette seed, Pear skin, Iris, Soft cognac
- Intended for. Feminine, Office, Everyday, Mature
- Season and occasion. All year
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Petitgrain and distilled lime with pear and white cognac.
- Heart. Ambrette seed with orris, irone, carrot seed and Phenoxanol, Rosaphen and Hedione HC.
- Base. Ambrettolide, isoambrettolide, Helvetolide, Romandolide, Exaltolide, Velvione and Musk R1 with Sandalore and Javanol.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ambrettolide | 100.00 | — | 10.00% |
| Ambrette Seed OilAs written: Ambrette Seed Oil 10% DPG | 80.00 | 10% in DPG | 8.00% |
| Hedione HC | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Helvetolide | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Isoambrettolide | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Phenoxanol | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Romandolide | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Exaltolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Musk R1 | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Sandalore | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Velvione | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Vertenex | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Cashmeran | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Ethyl Linalool | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Iso E Super | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Lime Oil (Distilled)As written: Distilled lime oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Petitgrain Bigarade Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Rosaphen | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cyclohexyl Salicylate | 27.00 | — | 2.70% |
| alpha-Irone | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Orris Givco | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Cognac Oil (White)As written: White cognac oil 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| JavanolAs written: Javanol 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Ethyl Decadienoate (Pear Ester)As written: Ethyl Decadienoate (Pear Ester) 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Clary Sage Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Jasmine Lactone | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Carrot Seed Oil | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Angelica Root Oil | 3.00 | — | 0.30% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Ambrettolide, Isoambrettolide, Helvetolide, Ambrette Seed Oil, Hedione HC
- What makes it distinctive. A musk built on ambrette — a natural, fruity-winey musk — and its macrocyclic relatives rather than on polycyclic laundry musks.
- Character. Refined, comforting and suitable for everyday wear close to the skin.
- Concentration. 12–15%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 5 of its materials: Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Sandalore (Restriction: 5-(2,2,3-Trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)-3-methylpentan-2-ol, Amendment 49); Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Angelica Root Oil (Restriction: Angelica root oil, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Angelica Root Oil is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. None of the EU’s long-standing named fragrance allergens is an ingredient in its own right. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.