In short
A bitter, peppery grapefruit that dries down to clean vetiver acetate and soft woods.
Concept
The bitter white pith of a grapefruit, cracked black pepper and the dry vetiver of a pressed shirt collar. A grown-up citrus for work, built on the bitterness of the peel rather than the juice.
- Family. Citrus — Bitter citrus, peppery
- Main accords. Grapefruit pith, Cracked pepper, Dry vetiver, Clean collar
- Intended for. Masculine, Office, Everyday, Young adult
- Season and occasion. Spring and summer
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Grapefruit, nootkatone, methyl pamplemousse and a trace of grapefruit mercaptan with yuzu and black pepper.
- Heart. Petitgrain, coriander, cypress, geranium and clary sage with a rhubarb-green edge.
- Base. Vetikol and vetiveryl acetate, Iso E Super, Timbersilk, Georgywood, cetalox and soft musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Iso E Super | 120.00 | — | 12.00% |
| Grapefruit Oil (Expressed) | 115.00 | — | 11.50% |
| Romandolide | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Tetrahydrolinalool | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Timbersilk | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Yuzu Oil | 45.00 | — | 4.50% |
| Georgywood | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Helvetolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Isoambrettolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Phenoxanol | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Vetikol Acetate | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Cashmeran | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Ethyl Linalool | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Petitgrain Bigarade Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Black Pepper Oil | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Cypress Oil | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Cetalox | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Methyl Pamplemousse | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| AmbrocenideAs written: Ambrocenide 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Clary Sage Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Coriander Seed Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Elemi Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Geranium Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Nootkatone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Ginger Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Grapefruit MercaptanAs written: Grapefruit Mercaptan 0.1% DPG | 10.00 | 0.1% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Rhubofix | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Grapefruit Oil (Expressed), Iso E Super, Black Pepper Oil, Vetikol Acetate, Nootkatone
- What makes it distinctive. A citrus led by pith and pepper, with vetiver acetates for a dry finish instead of a sweet musk base.
- Character. Crisp and professional.
- Concentration. 12% (eau de toilette)
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 6 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Grapefruit Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Grapefruit oil expressed, Amendment 49); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49); Cashmeran (Restriction: 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI), Amendment 49); Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) (Restriction: Lemon oil cold pressed, Amendment 49); Nootkatone (Specification: Nootkatone, Amendment 40).
- Phototoxicity. Grapefruit Oil (Expressed), Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) are phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. None of the EU’s long-standing named fragrance allergens is an ingredient in its own right. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.