In short
A warm, aromatic spice amber with dried fruit, saffron and a resinous incense trail.
Concept
A desert spice market at dusk: sacks of coriander and cardamom, dried dates and apricots, saffron, warm sand — and frankincense smoke drifting out of a doorway.
- Family. Spicy — Spiced amber
- Main accords. Coriander and cardamom, Dried dates, Saffron, Sand amber, Incense smoke
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Evening, Winter, Luxury niche
- Season and occasion. Winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bitter and sweet orange, coriander, cardamom, black pepper and ginger.
- Heart. Saffron (safraleine, ethyl safranate), dates (Datilat, fruit-sec), davana, apricot and a little rose and cumin.
- Base. Labdanum, benzoin, tolu, vanillin and Amber Core with frankincense, olibanum, myrrh, guaiac, Brahmanol and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 80.00 | — | 8.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Atlas)As written: Cedrus atlantica oil | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Brahmanol | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Cardamom Oil | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Ambrettolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Timbersilk | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Amber Core | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cedramber | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Coriander Seed Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Frankincense Oil (Olibanum) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Olibanum Resinoid Vulcain | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| SafraleineAs written: Safraleine 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Spirambrene | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Sweet Orange Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cardamom AbsoluteAs written: Cardamom Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Cetalox | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Datilat | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Ethyl SafranateAs written: Ethyl Safranate 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Fruit Sec | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Isomuscone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Tolu Balsam Resinoid | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Vanillin | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cosmone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Ginger AbsoluteAs written: Ginger Absolute 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Muscenone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Black Pepper Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Cinnamyl Acetate | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Cumin Seed OilAs written: Cumin Seed Oil 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Davana Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| gamma-Undecalactone (Aldehyde C-14) | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Myrrh Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Rose Absolute (Rosa centifolia)As written: Rose de mai absolute | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Cedarwood Oil (Atlas), Benzoin Resinoid (Siam), Cardamom Oil, Labdanum Absolute, Brahmanol
- What makes it distinctive. Spice as a place — a market — with dried fruit and incense rather than the usual cinnamon-vanilla.
- Character. Warm and evocative.
- Concentration. 18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 4 of its materials: Amber Core (Restriction: 1-(2-tert.-Butyl cyclohexyloxy)-2-butanol, Amendment 51); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Isomuscone (Restriction: Cyclohexadecanone, Amendment 51); Cumin Seed Oil (Restriction: Cumin oil, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed), Cumin Seed Oil are phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. None of the EU’s long-standing named fragrance allergens is an ingredient in its own right. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.