In short
A sweet, balsamic myrrh with honeyed opoponax, liquorice and rose over warm woods.
Concept
A lantern of myrrh resin burning in a dark chapel: bitter-sweet, medicinal myrrh, opoponax honey, a thread of liquorice and dried rose. A gentle incense — warm rather than austere.
- Family. Incense — Sweet resinous incense
- Main accords. Myrrh, Opoponax honey, Liquorice, Dried rose
- Intended for. Masculine, Evening, Winter, Mature
- Season and occasion. Winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bitter orange, elemi, pink pepper and cardamom.
- Heart. Myrrh oil and resinoid, opoponax, dihydroanethole, anethole and fennel with rose, davana, damascenone and saffron.
- Base. Olibanum, frankincense, labdanum, styrax, benzoin and tolu over Atlas cedar, cypriol, guaiac, oud, Amber Core and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cedarwood Oil (Atlas)As written: Cedrus atlantica oil | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Olibanum Resinoid Vulcain | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Exaltolide | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Myrrh Resinoid | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 56.00 | — | 5.60% |
| Galaxolide | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Ho Leaf Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Opoponax AbsoluteAs written: Opoponax Absolute 10% DPG | 40.00 | 10% in DPG | 4.00% |
| Phenylethyl Alcohol | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Tetrahydrolinalool | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Frankincense Oil (Olibanum) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Linalool | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Myrrh Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Amber Core | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Copaiba Balsam | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Elemi Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Muscenone | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Agarwood Oil (Oud)As written: Agarwood Oil (Oud) 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Tolu Balsam Resinoid | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cosmone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Opoponax Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Rose Absolute (Rosa centifolia)As written: Rose de mai absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| SafraleineAs written: Safraleine 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Vanillin | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Cardamom Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Dihydroanethole | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Pink Pepper Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Styrax Resinoid | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| beta-DamascenoneAs written: beta-Damascenone 10% DPG | 8.00 | 10% in DPG | 0.80% |
| Davana Oil | 8.00 | — | 0.80% |
| Anethole | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Sweet Fennel Oil | 3.00 | — | 0.30% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Olibanum Resinoid Vulcain, Cedarwood Oil (Atlas), Myrrh Resinoid, Myrrh Oil, Benzoin Resinoid (Siam)
- What makes it distinctive. Myrrh — usually a minor shadow in incense — made the lead, sweetened with liquorice instead of vanilla.
- Character. Warm, enveloping and meditative.
- Concentration. 18%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 7 of its materials: Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Linalool (Specification: Linalool, Amendment 38); Amber Core (Restriction: 1-(2-tert.-Butyl cyclohexyloxy)-2-butanol, Amendment 51); Opoponax Oil (Opoponax, Amendment 49); Styrax Resinoid (Restriction: Styrax, Amendment 49); beta-Damascenone (Restriction: Rose ketones, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Linalool. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.