In short
A herbal, slightly smoky sage over a soft, warm ambery-woody skin.
Concept
A bundle of sage smouldering in a cold room. Clary sage and Dalmatian sage give the herb; sclareol, sclareolide and cetalox give clary's own ambery skin; guaiacol, cade and cypriol give the grey ash. Calm and smoky.
- Family. Aromatic — Smoky herbal amber
- Main accords. Clary sage, Smouldering herbs, Grey ash, Soft amber
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Office, Young adult, Autumn
- Season and occasion. Autumn
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Grapefruit and lemon with clary sage, Dalmatian sage, rosemary, juniper and cardamom.
- Heart. Clary sage absolute and sclareol with lavender, olibanum and a little ash.
- Base. Sclareolide, cetalox, Z11, guaiac wood, cypriol, Kephalis, Atlas cedar and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Iso E Super | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Clary Sage Oil | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Atlas)As written: Cedrus atlantica oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Exaltolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Grapefruit Oil (Expressed) | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Hedione HC | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Kephalis | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Sage Oil (Dalmatian) | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Velvione | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Tetrahydrolinalool | 35.00 | — | 3.50% |
| Cetalox | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Clary Sage AbsoluteAs written: Clary Sage Absolute 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Cypriol Oil (Nagarmotha) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Lavender Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Okoumal | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Olibanum Resinoid Vulcain | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Sclareolide | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Timbersilk | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cade Oil (Rectified)As written: Juniper tar 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| GuaiacolAs written: Guaiacol 1% DPG | 20.00 | 1% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Ho Leaf Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Juniper Berry Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Terpinyl Acetate | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Cosmone | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Linalool Oxide | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Rosemary Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Sclareol | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Z11 | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Cardamom Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Clary Sage Oil, Iso E Super, Guaiac Wood Oil, Sage Oil (Dalmatian), Kephalis
- What makes it distinctive. Clary sage's own amber facets (sclareol, sclareolide) become the base, so the herb and the amber are one material family.
- Character. Soothing, quietly smoky and office-friendly.
- Concentration. 15%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 7 of its materials: Iso E Super (Restriction: 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl) ethanone (OTNE), Amendment 49); Exaltolide (Restriction: Cyclopentadecanolide, Amendment 49); Grapefruit Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Grapefruit oil expressed, Amendment 49); Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) (Restriction: Lemon oil cold pressed, Amendment 49); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49); Cade Oil (Rectified) (Cade oil, Amendment 47); Sclareol (Specification: Sclareol, Amendment 39).
- Phototoxicity. Grapefruit Oil (Expressed), Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) are phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. None of the EU’s long-standing named fragrance allergens is an ingredient in its own right. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.