In short
A dry, leathery tea amber with a smoky edge and a soft tobacco-hay warmth.
Concept
Black tea poured beside an amber fire. The Tea Ember accord is the subject: dry leaf, a little apricot, labdanum and a curl of smoke. Citrus and cardamom brighten it; cedar keeps it dry. Warm without being sweet.
- Family. Amber — Tea amber
- Main accords. Smoked black tea, Dry amber, Tobacco leaf, Cedar
- Intended for. Gender-neutral, Office, Luxury niche, Young adult
- Season and occasion. Autumn and winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Bergamot and lemon with cardamom and black pepper.
- Heart. Tea Ember — theaspirane, mate, ionone, osmanthus — with immortelle and tobacco.
- Base. Labdanum, benzoin and a little tonka over cedar, cedramber, vetiver and musk.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hedione | 100.00 | — | 10.00% |
| Linalool | 84.00 | — | 8.40% |
| Bergamot Oil FCF | 80.00 | — | 8.00% |
| Cedramber | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Ethylene Brassylate | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Benzoin Resinoid (Siam) | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Virginia)As written: Virginian cedarwood oil | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Vetiver Oil | 45.00 | — | 4.50% |
| Dihydro-beta-ionone | 42.00 | — | 4.20% |
| Cedrol | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Labdanum Absolute | 38.00 | — | 3.80% |
| Sclareolide | 35.00 | — | 3.50% |
| Mate Absolute | 27.00 | — | 2.70% |
| Ho Leaf Oil | 24.00 | — | 2.40% |
| Kephalis | 24.00 | — | 2.40% |
| Timbersilk | 24.00 | — | 2.40% |
| Ambroxan | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Immortelle AbsoluteAs written: Immortelle Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Tobacco AbsoluteAs written: Tobacco Absolute 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 18.00 | — | 1.80% |
| TheaspiraneAs written: Theaspirane 10% DPG | 18.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.80% |
| Cardamom Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Tonka Bean Absolute | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Linalool Oxide | 12.00 | — | 1.20% |
| Birch Tar Oil (Rectified)As written: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) 10% DPG | 10.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.00% |
| Black Pepper Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Cetalox | 9.00 | — | 0.90% |
| GuaiacolAs written: Guaiacol 1% DPG | 9.00 | 1% in DPG | 0.90% |
| Osmanthus AbsoluteAs written: Osmanthus Absolute 10% DPG | 9.00 | 10% in DPG | 0.90% |
| AmbrocenideAs written: Ambrocenide 10% DPG | 6.00 | 10% in DPG | 0.60% |
| TabanonAs written: Tabanon 10% DPG | 6.00 | 10% in DPG | 0.60% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Accords inside. This formula contains Tea Ember Accord at 300 parts. It is already expanded into the lines above — each material appears once, with the accord's share merged into it — so an accord is never weighed or counted twice.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Hedione, Linalool, Bergamot Oil FCF, Cedramber, Ethylene Brassylate
- What makes it distinctive. Amber built on tea and smoke rather than on vanilla and benzoin, which should keep it dry and adult.
- Character. Suited to cold-weather office wear, with a moderate trail.
- Concentration. 15% (eau de parfum)
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 3 of its materials: Linalool (Specification: Linalool, Amendment 38); Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) (Restriction: Lemon oil cold pressed, Amendment 49); Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) (Birch wood pyrolysate, Amendment 47).
- Phototoxicity. Lemon Oil (Cold-Pressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Linalool. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.