In short
Smoky pine tar and hot conifer resin with a eucalyptus-mint steam and a clean musky finish.
Concept
A sauna by a frozen lake: pine-tar soap, hot resinous benches, eucalyptus thrown on the stones — then the cold plunge. Extreme, but clean.
- Family. Woody — Resinous smoky conifers
- Main accords. Pine-tar soap, Hot benches, Eucalyptus steam, Cold plunge
- Intended for. Masculine, Experimental, Winter, Luxury niche
- Season and occasion. Winter
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Distilled lime, grapefruit and juniper with eucalyptus, menthol and spearmint.
- Heart. Scots and dwarf pine, fir balsam, spruce, isobornyl and bornyl acetates with soapy aldehyde.
- Base. Birch tar, cade, guaiacol and guaiac with cedar, cedrol, Georgywood, Timbersilk, cedramber, spirambrene, ambroxan, labdanum and musks.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scots Pine Needle Oil | 80.00 | — | 8.00% |
| Galaxolide | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Birch Tar Oil (Rectified)As written: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) 10% DPG | 50.00 | 10% in DPG | 5.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Virginia)As written: Virginian cedarwood oil | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Cedramber | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Cedrol | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Georgywood | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Isobornyl Acetate | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Cade Oil (Rectified)As written: Juniper tar 10% DPG | 30.00 | 10% in DPG | 3.00% |
| Dwarf Pine Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Eucalyptus Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Balsam Fir Needle Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Grapefruit Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Guaiac Wood Oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Lime Oil (Distilled)As written: Distilled lime oil | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Muscenone | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Spirambrene | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Tetrahydrolinalool | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Texas)As written: Cedarwood Oil Texas | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Timbersilk | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Ambroxan | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | 25.00 | — | 2.50% |
| Black Spruce Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Bornyl Acetate | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Juniper Berry Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Siberian Fir Needle Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Eucalyptol | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| GuaiacolAs written: Guaiacol 1% DPG | 15.00 | 1% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Aldehyde C-11 Undecylic (Undecanal)As written: Aldehyde C-11 Undecylic (Undecanal) 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Mastic Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| l-Menthol | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Spearmint Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Camphor | 5.00 | — | 0.50% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Georgywood, Scots Pine Needle Oil, Galaxolide, Cedarwood Oil (Virginia), Birch Tar Oil (Rectified)
- What makes it distinctive. Tar and steam treated as cleanliness — a sauna, not a campfire.
- Character. Bold, bracing and memorable.
- Concentration. 12–15%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 4 of its materials: Birch Tar Oil (Rectified) (Birch wood pyrolysate, Amendment 47); Cade Oil (Rectified) (Cade oil, Amendment 47); Grapefruit Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Grapefruit oil expressed, Amendment 49); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Grapefruit Oil (Expressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. None of the EU’s long-standing named fragrance allergens is an ingredient in its own right. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.