In short
A bitter, green neroli with pepper and brass over a salty vetiver-wood base.
Concept
A brass compass on a ship's chart, a sprig of orange blossom in the captain's buttonhole. Bitter neroli, Nerolina and petitgrain on a masculine frame of pepper, a brassy nitrile, sea salt and vetiver.
- Family. Floral — Neroli, marine woody
- Main accords. Bitter neroli, Petitgrain, Brass, Sea salt, Vetiver
- Intended for. Masculine, Summer, Office, Mature
- Season and occasion. Summer
- Collection. RUŌOD House Originals
How it develops
- Opening. Neroli, Nerolina, petitgrain oil and absolute and bitter orange with black pepper, cardamom, coriander and elemi.
- Heart. Orange flower, methyl anthranilate, linalyl acetate, linalool, nerol and neryl acetate with a brassy nitrile and C-10 aldehyde.
- Base. Vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, cedramber, Georgywood and Atlas cedar with maritima, ambroxan, ambrette and Romandolide.
Ingredients
Quantities are parts by weight of a 1,000-part fragrance concentrate — the weight put on the balance. Where a dilution is given, the line is weighed as that solution in dipropylene glycol, and its share is of the weighed amount.
| Material | Quantity | Dilution | Share |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hedione | 100.00 | — | 10.00% |
| Petitgrain Bigarade Oil | 80.00 | — | 8.00% |
| Neroli Oil | 70.00 | — | 7.00% |
| Georgywood | 60.00 | — | 6.00% |
| Linalool | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Linalyl Acetate | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Romandolide | 50.00 | — | 5.00% |
| Cedarwood Oil (Atlas)As written: Cedrus atlantica oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Isoambrettolide | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Vetiver Oil | 40.00 | — | 4.00% |
| Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Cedramber | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Habanolide | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Hexyl Salicylate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Vetiveryl Acetate | 30.00 | — | 3.00% |
| Ambroxan | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Black Pepper Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| MaritimaAs written: Maritima 10% DPG | 20.00 | 10% in DPG | 2.00% |
| Nerol | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Nerolina Oil | 20.00 | — | 2.00% |
| Ambrette Seed OilAs written: Ambrette Seed Oil 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| CaloneAs written: Calone 1% DPG | 15.00 | 1% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Citronellyl NitrileAs written: Citronellyl Nitrile 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Coriander Seed Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Aldehyde C-10 (Decanal)As written: Aldehyde C-10 (Decanal) 10% DPG | 15.00 | 10% in DPG | 1.50% |
| Elemi Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Lavender Oil | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Neryl Acetate | 15.00 | — | 1.50% |
| Cardamom Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Methyl Anthranilate | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Orange Flower Absolute | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Petitgrain Absolute | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Rosemary Oil | 10.00 | — | 1.00% |
| Total | 1000.00 parts | 100.00% |
Every material links to its page in the Material Encyclopedia.
Composition notes
- Key materials. Hedione, Petitgrain Bigarade Oil, Neroli Oil, Linalyl Acetate, Romandolide
- What makes it distinctive. Neroli worn as a masculine, maritime freshness rather than as a cologne's top note.
- Character. Elegant, fresh and versatile for summer.
- Concentration. 12–15%
Safety and compliance
- Status. Regulatory assessment pending. No formula-level safety assessment is documented yet, so this page does not say the formula is compliant for any use.
- IFRA Standards. The IFRA Standards Library covers 4 of its materials: Linalool (Specification: Linalool, Amendment 38); Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) (Restriction: Bitter orange peel oil expressed, Amendment 49); Hexyl Salicylate (Restriction: Hexyl salicylate, Amendment 49); Vetiveryl Acetate (Restriction: Acetylated Vetiver oil, Amendment 49).
- Phototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil (Expressed) is phototoxic; IFRA limits phototoxic materials in products left on skin exposed to sunlight.
- Skin sensitisation. EU-labelled fragrance allergens present as ingredients: Linalool. Natural materials carry further allergens as constituents, declared from the supplier’s data, and Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list to be labelled on products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2026.
- Product category. Limits depend on the product: fine fragrance, leave-on and rinse-off products have different IFRA categories, and each Standard sets its own figure for each.
Related formulas and accords
Source and attribution
RUŌOD House Original — an original composition by RUŌOD House. Published as the house’s own work, as attested by the owner of RUOOD Lab on 26 October 2026. The name is the collection’s own and has not been through a trademark search; it needs a formal clearance before any commercial use.
Reuse. Under the permission it is published with, you may read it here, study it, modify it for your own experiments, import it into RUŌOD Lab. Conditions: Keep the attribution “RUŌOD House”. Regulatory assessment pending: check each formula against the current IFRA Standards and the rules for the product and market before use on skin or in a product. Anything else needs the rights holder's own permission.
Import readiness
Every ingredient resolves to a material in the RUŌOD Material Library, with its dilution as printed or as supplied, so this formula can be imported faithfully.
Rights holders: if you believe this page uses something you own, or that it is inaccurate, contact us (info@ruood.com) and we will review it, and correct or remove it where that is warranted.