Treemoss Absolute

In short

Treemoss absolute is extracted from Pseudevernia furfuracea, a lichen that grows on pine and fir. It has a mossy, woody odour that is more resinous and piney than oakmoss.

What Treemoss Absolute smells like

Treemoss is a different lichen (Pseudevernia furfuracea), growing mainly on conifers. A blog source describes a pine-tinged, slightly smoky character that oakmoss lacks, drier and tarrier; Arctander, as quoted by a supplier, notes that most oakmoss products are mixtures with treemoss, which is less green and different in odour, less aromatic than true oakmoss. It yields more absolute than oakmoss. IFRA limits its resin acids, atranol and chloroatranol, and budgets it together with oakmoss.

Leading note: Piney moss
Supporting facets: Woody, smoky, tarry, earthy
Character: Dry, dark, tenacious

What makes Treemoss Absolute distinctive

The conifer lichen: a drier, tarrier, piney moss than oakmoss.

How Treemoss Absolute is used

Used as a mossy base in chypre, fougère and woody compositions, within IFRA limits shared with oakmoss.

Typical role: fixative (slow to evaporate; helps a blend last and holds lighter notes); modifier (used in small amounts to change the character of a blend).

How Treemoss Absolute differs from similar materials

Oakmoss Absolute: Arctander, as quoted, finds treemoss less aromatic than oakmoss and different in odour; oakmoss is the damper, more marine-earthy moss. (compared directly by a cited source)
Methyl Atrarate: Methyl atrarate is a much weaker, cleaner mossy note; treemoss is a full, dark, piney moss. (compared directly by a cited source)

An asterisk marks a difference that a cited source states directly. The others compare the published descriptions of each material. Smell varies with grade, supplier and dilution; compare them side by side on blotters before substituting one for another.

Formulation considerations

Restricted because of its allergenic constituents; use low-atranol qualities that meet the current IFRA Standard. Treemoss extract is a declarable EU allergen.

Identity and classification

Type: Absolute
Origin: Natural
Odour family: Chypre / Woody
Note position: Base note
Physical form at room temperature: Viscous liquid
Also known as: Pseudevernia furfuracea extract
Botanical source: Pseudevernia furfuracea
CAS number: 90028-67-4

The CAS number was checked on 19 October 2026 against a PubChem substance record that gives it for this material. A natural material is a mixture, so it has no single formula; its composition varies with origin and processing.

Safety and compliance

The IFRA Standards Library lists a Standard covering Treemoss Absolute:

"Treemoss extracts" — type not stated in the library listing, 49th Amendment, published 2020-01

Limits differ by product category and are set out in the Standard itself; this page does not reproduce them. The list above reflects the library as read on 19 October 2026.

Treemoss Absolute is one of the 26 fragrance allergens listed individually in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (label name: Evernia furfuracea extract), which must be named on cosmetic labels above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products. Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extended the list; see the fragrance allergens list.

This page is general information, not a safety assessment or a specification. Confirm identity, composition, IFRA status and allergen content from your supplier's documents for the lot you hold.

Materials it works with

Oakmoss Absolute
Absolute · Chypre / Green — mossy, earthy, inky, forest floor
Methyl Atrarate
Aroma chemical · Chypre / Woody — mossy, earthy, woody, phenolic
Patchouli Oil
Essential oil · Woody / Chypre — earthy, woody, camphoraceous, dark
Labdanum Absolute
Absolute · Amber / Leather — amber, balsamic, leathery, animalic

Used in formulas and accords

Used in 2 published formulas

Treemoss Absolute is an ingredient in 2 perfume formulas in the Formula & Accord Library.

RUŌOD House Originals

Original compositions by RUŌOD House.

Bracken Moon
RUŌOD House Original · listed as “Treemoss Absolute 10% DPG”, at 10% in DPG
Ivy Wall
RUŌOD House Original · listed as “Treemoss Absolute 10% DPG”, at 10% in DPG

Questions about Treemoss Absolute

Is Treemoss Absolute natural or synthetic?

Treemoss Absolute is natural. It is a concentrated extract obtained from plant material with a solvent, then washed with ethanol to remove the waxes.

What is the CAS number of Treemoss Absolute?

90028-67-4, the registry number for the absolute as a substance rather than a single molecule. It was checked against PubChem on 19 October 2026.

Which published formulas use Treemoss Absolute?

Treemoss Absolute is used in 2 published formulas in the RUŌOD Lab Formula & Accord Library: Bracken Moon and Ivy Wall. Each is listed with a link under "Used in formulas and accords" on this page.

Is Treemoss Absolute covered by an IFRA Standard?

Yes. The IFRA Standards Library lists a Standard covering it: "Treemoss extracts" — type not stated in the library listing, 49th Amendment. The limits depend on the product category; read the Standard itself before formulating.

Sources

PubChem — substance 135305899, checked 19 October 2026.
IFRA — Standards Library, read 19 October 2026.
EUR-Lex — Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex III.
Everfumed — What does oakmoss smell like? (comparing treemoss) — published perfumery reference.
Hermitage Oils — Oakmoss absolute (quoting Arctander) — distributor's description.
IFRA Standard — Treemoss extracts — published perfumery reference.
Olfactory profile: the RUŌOD Lab team's synthesis of the published descriptions above, reviewed 21 October 2026. Evidence: more than one published description. Classification and the short description: revision 1. Descriptions of odour are judgement, not measurement.