Short answer
Linalool is one of the most widely used fragrance materials: a fresh, floral-woody, slightly citrus and lavender-like terpene alcohol that occurs naturally in hundreds of plants, including lavender, bergamot, coriander, rosewood and ho wood, and is also made synthetically. It gives freshness and floral lift to almost every family. It is an EU-listed fragrance allergen, mainly because linalool that has oxidized in air forms hydroperoxides that can sensitize the skin; good-quality grades are protected with antioxidants and should be stored full, closed and cool. Linalool exists in two mirror-image forms that smell slightly different, which is one reason natural sources vary.
Where it comes from
| Source | Notes |
|---|---|
| Synthetic linalool | Consistent, inexpensive; the usual choice for the pure material |
| Lavender and lavandin oils | Rich in linalool and linalyl acetate |
| Bergamot and other citrus | Linalool and linalyl acetate alongside limonene |
| Coriander seed oil | Very rich in linalool |
| Ho wood / ho leaf (camphor tree, linalool chemotype) | A natural linalool source that replaced much rosewood |
| Rosewood | Historically important; supply has been a conservation concern |
Linalool content in naturals depends on species, chemotype and lot; see essential oil chemotypes.
Two forms
Linalool is chiral: it exists as two mirror-image forms. They smell similar but not identical — one often described as more floral-lavender, the other sweeter and more herbaceous — and different plants make them in different proportions. Synthetic linalool is usually a mixture of both. This is one reason linalool from lavender and from coriander are not interchangeable in subtle work; see perfume chemistry basics.
Oxidation and allergens
Pure linalool is a weak sensitizer; the problem is what forms when it reacts with air. Oxidized linalool contains hydroperoxides that are much more likely to cause allergic reactions. That is why:
- commercial grades usually contain an antioxidant — check the specification;
- stock should be kept full, tightly closed, cool and dark, and used within its shelf life (see fragrance raw material shelf life);
- linalool is declared on labels above the threshold in the EU and elsewhere, from every source including naturals (see the fragrance allergens list).
A perfume with lavender and bergamot almost always declares linalool. Calculating the total from all sources is explained in EU fragrance allergen labelling.
What it does in a formula
- Fresh lift in citrus and colognes, lasting longer than citrus terpenes; see the eau de cologne structure.
- Floral freshness in rose, muguet and white florals.
- Lavender character in fougères; see the fougère structure.
- A blender that joins fresh tops to floral hearts.
Linalool is part of the map in perfume materials by odor family.
A worked allergen estimate
An illustrative case, with invented figures: a concentrate contains 5% linalool added as the pure material, 10% lavender oil whose allergen statement gives 30% linalool, and 15% bergamot oil at 12% linalool. Total linalool in the concentrate is 5 + (10 × 0.30) + (15 × 0.12) = 5 + 3.0 + 1.8 = 9.8%. At 18% concentrate in the finished perfume, that is 9.8 × 0.18 = 1.764%, far above the 0.001% labeling threshold for leave-on products, so linalool is declared. Use your materials' actual figures for each lot; natural sources vary.
Frequently asked questions
Should I avoid linalool?
It is one of the most useful materials in perfumery. Use good grades, store them well, keep within any restrictions for your product, and declare it where required.
Is natural linalool safer than synthetic?
No. Both oxidize the same way, and both count toward allergen declarations.
How long does linalool keep?
That depends on the grade, its antioxidant and how it is stored. Follow the supplier's shelf life or retest date, keep containers full and closed, and do not use linalool that has developed a sharp or rancid note.
Is linalyl acetate the same as linalool?
No. Linalyl acetate is the ester of linalool, fruitier and softer, and abundant in lavender and bergamot. The two usually appear together in those oils.
Written and reviewed by the RUŌOD Lab team. This article is general education about perfume formulation and record-keeping; it is not legal, regulatory or safety advice, and the examples are illustrations, not validated commercial formulas. How we write and check these guides.