Short answer
"Natural" has no single legal definition for perfume in the US or EU, so a natural claim is judged by whether it is truthful and not misleading for the whole product. Two international standards help define terms: ISO 9235 sets the vocabulary for aromatic natural raw materials (what counts as an essential oil, an absolute, a resinoid and so on), and ISO 16128 gives a method for calculating natural and natural-origin content of cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO 16128 explicitly does not cover claims or labeling, and private certification schemes have their own rules. Make any natural claim specific, calculable and documented — and remember that alcohol, water and processing all count.
Why "natural" is hard
- Most perfumes contain synthetics. Even naturals-heavy perfumes commonly use aroma chemicals, and isolates from natural sources sit between the two; see natural vs synthetic fragrance materials.
- The alcohol counts. Perfumer's alcohol is usually the largest ingredient. Whether it is from a natural source (grain or cane fermentation) and what it is denatured with matters to a whole-product claim.
- Processing changes status. Distillation and extraction are generally accepted for naturals; chemical modification usually is not. Where the line falls depends on the standard used.
- "Natural" does not mean "safe". Naturals contain allergens and restricted constituents like any material; see the fragrance allergens list.
ISO 9235: what the terms mean
ISO 9235 (Aromatic natural raw materials — Vocabulary; current edition 2021) defines terms such as essential oil, absolute, concrete, resinoid and extract, and the processes that produce them. Using its definitions makes descriptions precise: an "essential oil" is obtained by specific processes (distillation, or mechanical expression for citrus), which is why an absolute, for example, is not an essential oil. It is a vocabulary standard: it says what things are called, not what you may claim. The material types are explained in essential oils, absolutes and isolates.
ISO 16128: natural and natural-origin content
ISO 16128 (in two parts: definitions, and calculation methods) gives each cosmetic ingredient an index for natural, natural-origin, organic and organic-origin content, and a way to calculate those percentages for a whole product, with or without water. It allows a brand to say, for example, "95% natural-origin content according to ISO 16128" and show the calculation.
Two limits matter. The standard states that it does not address product communication — claims and labeling — nor human or environmental safety. And a calculated percentage can be technically correct and still mislead if presented as "natural" without qualification. Use it as a transparent calculation method, and present the figure with its basis.
Certification schemes
Private standards for natural and organic cosmetics set their own criteria for ingredients, processing, minimum percentages and labeling, and certify products that meet them. A certification logo can only be used under the scheme's license. If a "certified natural" claim matters to your brand, choose a scheme early: its rules can affect which materials and alcohol you may use.
Making a defensible claim
- Decide what you actually mean: "100% natural fragrance", "made with natural essential oils", "95% natural origin (ISO 16128)", or a certification.
- Calculate it from your finished-product formula, including alcohol, water and anything in purchased materials (carriers in fragrance oils count). See is your fragrance oil already diluted?
- Document each material's natural status with supplier evidence: botanical source, process, and absence of synthetic additives.
- Word it precisely. A specific claim with its basis is more defensible than "natural" alone.
- Review it whenever a material or supplier changes.
The rules on claims in general
In the EU, cosmetic claims must meet common criteria — including truthfulness and evidential support — set by Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013, and the product information file must hold the evidence. In the US, FDA has not defined "natural" for cosmetics, and advertising claims are subject to the general rule that they must be truthful and not misleading. Claims that drift into health effects are a separate risk; see perfume claims. The market rules are summarized in perfume regulations by market.
Sources
- International Organization for Standardization — ISO 9235:2021, Aromatic natural raw materials — Vocabulary, checked October 9, 2026 (catalogue entry).
- International Organization for Standardization — ISO 16128-2:2017, Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients — Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products, checked October 9, 2026 (catalogue entry).
- EUR-Lex — Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013, checked October 9, 2026 (link format).
Frequently asked questions
Can I call a perfume natural if the fragrance is all essential oils but the alcohol is synthetic?
A whole-product "natural" claim would be hard to defend. "Fragrance made from essential oils" describes what is true.
Are natural isolates natural?
Under ISO 9235's vocabulary and many schemes, isolates obtained from natural materials by physical means can be natural; synthetically produced "nature-identical" molecules are not. Check the standard or scheme you use.
Written and reviewed by the RUŌOD Lab team. This article is general education about perfume formulation and record-keeping; it is not legal, regulatory or safety advice, and the examples are illustrations, not validated commercial formulas. How we write and check these guides.