A blind buy is a perfume bought without smelling it first — usually online. It is always a gamble, because no description can tell you how a fragrance will smell on your skin. You can lower the risk by buying a sample first whenever possible, choosing from a family you already know you like, reading several descriptions for the overall character rather than individual notes, comparing it with perfumes you have smelled, buying the smallest size, and checking the return policy before you order.

Why blind buying is risky

Smell is personal, skin changes perfume, and the language used to describe fragrance is imprecise. A note list tells you a few impressions the perfume is meant to give, not what it smells like as a whole; two perfumes listing "rose, oud, saffron" can be completely different. See Are Perfume Notes Real Ingredients? and Why Skin Changes a Perfume.

Better than blind: a sample first

The most reliable way to reduce risk is not to buy blind at all. Many houses and retailers sell samples, travel sprays or discovery sets, and the cost is small compared with a full bottle you do not wear. See Perfume Samples and Decants.

If you do buy blind

1. Stay near what you know

Your best predictor is your own history. If you love three woody fragrances, a fourth woody one is a smaller risk than your first gourmand. Identify your fragrance family and start there.

2. Read for character, not notes

Look for the overall impression in several sources: is it described as fresh or warm, sweet or dry, airy or dense, close or loud? Those words tell you more than whether it contains pink pepper.

3. Compare with perfumes you have smelled

Descriptions that say a perfume resembles one you know — or that it sits in the same style — are among the most useful clues, as long as several people agree.

4. Read reviews in quantity, not individually

One review is one nose on one skin. Across many reviews, patterns emerge: "very sweet", "soapy", "lasts all day", "quiet". Notice especially what people who disliked it say; that often tells you the risk.

5. Check the concentration and the family

An eau de parfum and an eau de toilette with the same name may differ in composition as well as strength. See Eau de Parfum vs Eau de Toilette.

6. Buy the smallest size

And check whether opened perfume can be returned. Many retailers do not accept it.

A blind buy is a bet. The skill lies in choosing bets you can afford to lose.


Warning signs

  • Very polarising notes — heavy oud, strong animalic florals, very sweet gourmands, smoky leather — are riskier than moderate ones.
  • Descriptions that are all mood and no character — "a journey of the senses" tells you nothing about the smell.
  • Reformulations. If reviews mention an older version, the perfume you receive may differ from the one being praised. See Why Perfumes Are Reformulated.
  • Prices far below normal from unknown sellers may mean old stock, poor storage or counterfeits. See How to Store Perfume.

When a blind buy misses

It happens to everyone. Before giving up on a perfume:

  1. Wear it on several different days; first impressions can be misleading.
  2. Try it on clothing, or with fewer sprays.
  3. Try layering a simple musk or wood beneath it. See The Art of Layering.
  4. If it still isn’t you, give it to someone who will enjoy it — our advice on choosing perfume as a gift works in reverse, too.

Common questions

Is it worth blind buying perfume?

It can be, if the risk is small — a style you know, a small size, an affordable price. For an expensive bottle, a sample first is wiser.

Can I trust perfume notes when buying online?

As a rough guide to character, yes; as a description of the actual smell, no.

Are online perfume reviews reliable?

Individually, not very; collectively, they are often useful for spotting patterns such as sweetness or longevity.

Further reading

The whole choosing process is set out in How to Choose a Perfume. Each perfume in the RUŌOD collection lists its family and its top, heart and base notes, to give you as clear a picture as words can.